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Going to Italy in a couple weeks, and will be visiting Rome and Florence. Any tips on what can be missed or must-sees?

Suggestions on when to visit certain venues to avoid crowds or see things off the beaten path would be greatly appreciated.

by Anonymousreply 46June 19, 2021 11:57 PM

I think the Top Ten Guidebooks are really a good investment as well as Rick Steves. If you want a really good walking tour (expensive) try Context tours. What to see depends on the time you have. In Rome you need to go to the Sistine Chapel, the Colosseum and the Forum (which are adjacent and can be accessed by one ticket). The Campo da Fiori is a lovely square outdoor market open every day and is a 10-minute walk from the Piazza Navona. Near there is a pedestrian bridge where you can walk over to Trastevere, which is very touristy but used to be a bohemian area. Of course these are in every guidebook. Wander around the back streets behind Corso Vittorio Emmanuele for the little boutiques near the Campo. I did not see much of Rome in 5 days and was rather overwhelmed.

Besides all the museums in Florence and churches (endless--even in a month there I didn't see everything), go up to Fiesole--about a 25-minute bus ride. It's a little town at slightly higher elevation that Florence so is cooler with nice breezes and a beautiful view. It's worth buying a ticket to the museum in middle of Fiesole and going down into the Etruscan ruins below the museum--one of the most peaceful places I have ever been anywhere and looks out over beautiful Tuscan hills. It's a great respite form the streets of Florence which are like freeways filled with people instead of cars, even in the off season. I went up there several times and if I went back to Florence would probably stay in Fiesole instead of Florence.

I forget the name of the church up at the top of the hills in Florence, but it's Byzantine rather than renaissance and has spectacular tiled walls (and permits photos). Of course you will go up to Piazzale Michelangelo for the amazing views of the Arno and all the bridges.

Have lots of gelato in Florence--it is the best of anyplace in Italy that I went. Vivoli is famous and worth its reputation. There was another little gelateria behind the Roberto Cavalli store off the Via Tornabuone that was fantastic. I'm doing all this from memory since 2009 by the way, so am pretty impressed with myself at this point that I remember this much LOL.

Buon viaggio!

by Anonymousreply 1September 30, 2015 5:18 PM

The Prada and Gucci outlets south of Florence if course

by Anonymousreply 2September 30, 2015 5:49 PM

Both cities are visited by so many tourists that it is really hard to find off-the-beaten-track sights there. But here are some less frequently visited sights:

In Rome you should defintely visit Parco degli Acquedotti - it's a huge park in the suburbs filled with amazing aqueduct ruins and filled mostly with locals. Nearby Via Appia and all the roman monuments and catacombs lying along it is also a must see sight and is best visited by bike. If you've never been to Pompeii you should visit Case Romane del Celio - a Roman house filled with frescoes and rather free of tourists. And here's probably my favorite quirky Roman sight: a gorgeous view through the keyhole of the Knights of Malta palace (see photo below).

I honestly don't remember much of Florence except that it was packed with tourists and since it's a much smaller city than Rome the crowds are much more annoying. Salvatore Ferragamo museum was fun and I had the whole place to myself. It was fun seeing shoes and foot models belonging to various Golden Age hollywood celebs (like Greta Garbo and Claudette Colbert). And although the queue is usually very long a climb to the cathedral dome is a must. The same thing goes for Michelangelo's David and his uncut wiener. The gelato and porchetta sandwiches in Florence are also delicious.

Offsite Link
by Anonymousreply 3September 30, 2015 6:14 PM

The Vatican

by Anonymousreply 4September 30, 2015 6:18 PM

The Ferragamo Museum costs a little money, whereas the Ferragamo sales showroom next door is free, and you can also see movie stars shoes and photos of Sal with Sophia Loren, et al. When I was there in 2009, they told me Mrs. Ferragamo was still alive and came in to the store quite often (in her '80s or '90s--don't remember). Anyway, certainly worth seeing. Make sure to eat bistecca a la fiorentina while in Florence (a hige T-bone steak, enough for two people but extremely delicious). The food is a little monotonous in Tuscany--it's basically, pork, ham, wild boar (in season), pork and another kind of ham (and tripe if you're brave). There is almost no seafood--you have to go to the coast (about 2-1/2 hours by train) to get it. They are very tradiitionally minded about these things.

If you have time, go to Siena on the bus from Florence (faster than the train). It's a small city, but absolutely beautiful and with a spectacular cathedral that will take your breath away.

by Anonymousreply 5September 30, 2015 7:13 PM

That's a HUGE T-bone steak of course (not hige).

by Anonymousreply 6September 30, 2015 7:17 PM

In Florence, they're touristy, but I enjoyed the Duomo, Ufitzi, and Ponte Vecchio. For something a little different, I agree w/ R5 - take the bus to Siena. You can spend a day there seeing the sites, buy some food at a local shop, have a picnic in the Piazza Del Campo.

by Anonymousreply 7September 30, 2015 8:01 PM

Sites = sights. Don't "Oh dear!" me!

by Anonymousreply 8September 30, 2015 8:01 PM

Thank you very much for your suggestions!

One thing I'm curious about: tipping or no tipping? Is it expected?

by Anonymousreply 9October 1, 2015 12:41 AM

Florence is a prime example that's been sodomized by mass tourism. Yes, there's the Uffizi, the Duomo, and the statue of David, but I couldn't wait to get out of there and head for Siena, which was *far* more enjoyable. A short train ride from Florence will take you to Lucca, which is what the XV-XVI century Florence would be without tourists.

Yes, Rome does get touristy but they are spread over a larger number of sites. Go to the Palazzo Dora Pamphilj to see one of the most impressive private art collections without any crowds (a fun fact: the current owner, the scion of the family is gay, owns the palace with his Brazilian partner, and provides the audio commentary for visitors.) A not particularly long subway ride will take you to EUR, a surreal suburb built during the fascist rule, where you can see some seriously impressive futurist/brutalist architecture. And a slightly longer train ride on suburban rail will take you to Ostia, the port of the ancient Rome, with Roman ruins, where you can have a leisurely picnic. If you like to walk through the pleasant greenery while taking in the views of the entire city, head for the hill of Gianicolo.

Tipping is expected: in a cafe, round the bill to the nearest Euro. A modest tip for a cab driver is also expected. When dining at a nicer restaurant, it's probably advisable to leave a bit more, like 10%.

by Anonymousreply 10October 1, 2015 12:59 AM

Be very careful of gypsys in Rome. Be very careful of cash transactions, and check your restaurant bills.

by Anonymousreply 11October 1, 2015 1:26 AM

As far as tipping , doesn't Italy add service to the bill? Italy and Austria add cover as well.

by Anonymousreply 12October 1, 2015 1:30 AM

Florence is a prime example of a city sodomized by mass tourism. Yes, there are the Uffizi, the statue of David, and the Duomo, but, frankly, I couldn't wait to get out of there and head for Siena which was far more enjoyable. Also, if you won't be driving while there, the city of Lucca is a short local train ride away and is basically what XV-XVI century Florence would be like without the throngs of tourists.

Rome is also mobbed by tourists but being a larger city, it can be easier to avoid the crowds. Besides the usual stops on the well beaten paths, I'd highly recommend the Palazzo di Dora Pamphilj. It's one of the worlds most impressive private art collections with pieces by Caravaggio and Velazquez, among many others. It is a private home of the (gay) count and his Brazilian husband but they opened it to the public and it's not on the itinerary of many tourists. Also, the suburb of EUR is very interesting and reachable by subway. It was a showpiece of the fascist regime with some truly spectacular futurist/brutalist architecture. Also, you can take a local train to Ostia, which was the port of the ancient Rome, and see a very extensive archeological site, while enjoying a picnic. Finally, the hill of Gianicolo could be a nice break from all the sightseeing, if you enjoy walking through the greenery while taking in the view of the entire city.

In cafes, you round your bill to the nearest Euro, cab drivers will be happy with a modest tip, while at a nicer restaurant, you should tip around 10%. That was my experience.

by Anonymousreply 13October 1, 2015 1:39 AM

Ah, Fiesole! I hooked up with a hot museum guard there!

by Anonymousreply 14October 1, 2015 1:44 AM

Avoid that homophobe, the Poop!

by Anonymousreply 15October 1, 2015 1:45 AM

Have dinner at La Giostra in Florence. The staff is great and brought way more food than I was expecting. There was too much if it, but it was too good not to eat. You'll need a reservation, but it's worth the effort. Quattro Liones was also recommended but we left it too late to get a table.

by Anonymousreply 16October 1, 2015 1:54 AM

Re tipping: It is not EXPECTED in the same sense as in the US. Just round up to the nearest Euro. Even in expensive restaurants, Italians don't tip much. I do what the people in the country I'm in do. Restaurant workers in Europe are paid like employees and have benefits. It's not the tiny little nothing wages that American restaurant workers get so they need tips to survive. 10% would only be in very high end restaurants, and Florence doesn't really have a lot of those. They are appreciative of tips but do not expect them. I was in Italy for 6 weeks several years ago and asked a lot of Italians what they do in restaurants.

by Anonymousreply 17October 1, 2015 4:23 AM

A waiter in Florence told me, as he handed me the bill.... "The service charge is NOT a tip!" so I made a point of leaving the arrogant prick nothing.

by Anonymousreply 18October 1, 2015 4:30 AM

I stayed in the Oltrarno (south of the Arno) area near the Pitti Palace and the Ponte Vecchio in 2009 for a month. (I've posted above several times). I just found my favorite restaurant for you, which was a few streets from the apartment I rented. It's called Trattoria I'Raddi. It was very small and quaint with amazing and reasonable food and really nice owners (and the best bistecca alla fiorentina I had). I hope it's still as good. I see a lot of nice recent reviews for it on Trip Advisor and Yelp.

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by Anonymousreply 19October 1, 2015 4:37 AM

Don't waste too much time in Rome. It's Roma pickpocket hell, and the local police stand by and do nothing. Be very careful on the streets, in the subway, on buses, in the train station and sitting outside in a restaurant.

Another vote for Siena. Also the Tuscan medieval hill towns, such as Pienza, Montalcino, Montepulciano.

I found the Pitti Palace much more interesting, art-wise, than the Uffizi. Walk across the river and up to the Piazzale Michelangelo for a stunning view of Florence and the Arno.

by Anonymousreply 20October 1, 2015 4:42 AM

Bully for you, r18. Admittedly my last visit to Italy was in 1988, lire and preEuro. A restaurant bill would include service (if that isn't a tip, I don't know what the hell is!), cover (bread, tablecloths, utensils) and tax, as well as the meal. And don't think they wouldn't try to pad it - add up the bill and point out any discrepancies.

by Anonymousreply 21October 1, 2015 2:08 PM

The service charge in Italy goes to the establishment, and not to the server. But unlike the US, waiters don't depend on tips to survive, so it's not so essential. If you get excellent service and want tip, you need to do give a tip in addition to the service charge.

I found a Firenze Card in Florence to be very useful for skipping many of the queues. It costs 72euro for 72 hours, so it's expensive if you aren't planning on seeing a number of the attractions.

For me, seeing David was an absolute highlight. If you go, go right on opening. If you have a Firenze Card you can go straight through the turnstiles while the reserved ticket holders get their tickets - you'll get a few minutes with David before the tourist onslaught. I also enjoyed seeing Galileo's telescopes. Walking up to the Cupola in the Florence Duomo is very good, but avoid busy times because you'll spend ages in the stairwells because they let more people in at the bottom as they do onto the viewing platform - but the view is worth it. The tower at the Palazzo Vecchio has excellent views, too, and isn't such a long climb.

In Rome, it's worth seeing Michelangelo's Moses in the San Pietro in Vincoli church. It's not too far a walk from the Colosseum. The ticket line to the Colosseum/Forum/Palatine Hill is much shorter at Palatine, so grab your ticket there. It's valid for two days, so maybe do Palatine/Forum one day, and the Colosseum on the second.

The crowds at the Vatican were insane when I was there. If you want to see the Sistine Chapel, make a reservation. For the Basilica, go early or later in the day to avoid long security queues.

by Anonymousreply 22October 1, 2015 3:17 PM

In Germany the service charge goes to the server. I believe in France service is included in the price of the food, but of course they don't tell you that. It's all different in each European country.

by Anonymousreply 23October 1, 2015 5:49 PM

Why isn't this thread tagged Travel?

There's a great coffee bar near the Pantheon - whatever the "Golden Cup" is translated into Italian.

by Anonymousreply 24October 1, 2015 6:43 PM

Enjoy truffle season, OP! Buon Viaggio!

by Anonymousreply 25October 1, 2015 6:50 PM

Where do you find hot gays in Rome?

by Anonymousreply 26October 1, 2015 9:31 PM

Must see: Cats, they are everywhere! AVOID: Contact with people. They belong to another culture.

by Anonymousreply 27October 1, 2015 10:50 PM

Any recommendations for a reasonably priced hotel in Florence?

Has anyone been to Umbria?

by Anonymousreply 28October 6, 2015 2:15 PM

Are you the dope bringing his mother there for her one big trip before she dies? Are you planning to kill her while you're there?

by Anonymousreply 29October 6, 2015 2:34 PM

The San Marco is a bit away from some of the crowds in Florence and it's nice, monks cloister with painted small rooms by Fra Angelico along with the famous Annuciation - a different museum experience. The Uffizi is crowded, but worth it for the Botticelli room - pay the little bit extra to skip the line up.

by Anonymousreply 30October 6, 2015 2:36 PM

R28, I went to Assisi in Umbria, it's actually quite nice it's all on top of a hill, very peaceful. Nice buildings and nice natural surroundings. If you are interested in art or St Francis of Assisi there is a Basilica with frescos by Giotto and others

by Anonymousreply 31October 6, 2015 2:40 PM

Bump

by Anonymousreply 32October 6, 2015 3:40 PM

In Florence you have to go to the Academia to see Michelangelo's David. Florence really is a city filled with art. Also visit the weird and wonderful Santa Maria Novella pharmacia, which hasn't changed much in about 1000 years. It is open for business and sells all kinds of natural oils and unguents and herbs. We couldn't get in to the Ufizzi because you had to make reservations weeks in advance. Just walk around. If you can arrange walking tours you'll appreciate stuff more. Also walk across the Pontevecchio and shop the jewelry stalls and shop the peddlers and vendors in the piazzas. I loved shopping Florence but saw no need to hang around the Ferragamo store. Agree about the gelato. The best anywhere. Except Capri.

On to Rome. You have to go to St. Peter's basilica, and you have to go to the Capitoline museums. At St. Peter's inconspicuously hidden in an alcove is Michelangelo's Pieta. it is, IMO one of the most powerful pieces of sculpture ever created. You get emotional if you allow yourself to just stand there and absorb the beauty and the profound sorrow. Some of the ancient sculptures and the art objects discovered and housed at the Capitoline Museum look like props out of Fellini's Satyricon. YOu can see the coloseum the Forum Romanum and the Circus Maximus the Baths of Caracalla, all in one afternoon. There is a lot to see in Rome that predates Christianity so look for it. In the Spring and Summer the Villa Borghese Gardens are beautiful and they have some incredible artworks. I missed seeing the catacombs but if you aren't claustraphobic you might enjoy a tour.

by Anonymousreply 33October 6, 2015 4:28 PM

Re hotels in Florence: There is a small hotel called the Hotel Annalena just across from the Boboli Gardens on a street called Via Romana. I stayed in a private apartment for a month one floor below the Annalena (this building is a former Medici Palazzo from the 15th century with 4 floors, some of which contain apartments and offices and one floo, the second, is this hotel. I thought it was charming with a sort of 1930s feel to the decor and that if I went back to Florence I would want to stay there. It's a great location--5 minutes walk to the Pitti Palace and a few minutes further to the Ponte Vecchio which crosses into the Centro. I think it has good reviews on trip advisor and booking.com. The desk people were very welcoming and let me walk around and look at several of the rooms.

by Anonymousreply 34October 6, 2015 4:30 PM

Get youself a Roma Pass to avoid lines and get a break on paying every time you want to see something. YOu should order them online a couple months before you go.

Worth every penny. BTW. So many of the questions travelers ask can easily be answered by going on Trip Advisor.They have very informative forums.

by Anonymousreply 35October 6, 2015 4:34 PM

R13 is good advice.

by Anonymousreply 36June 19, 2021 10:34 PM

Rick Steves free app has a ton of walking tours and audio tours for both Rome and Florence, and they're really good (and free).

In Rome, the Giardinetto Del Monte Oppio is a tiny little park in a residential section right in front of the Coliseum that has almost no tourists - or anyone else for that matter. It's a great spot for a photo of the sunset behind the Coliseum. There's so much to do and see in Rome, you'd have to be more specific with what you're looking for to get the best recommendations. Personally, I liked to start one of Rick Steves' self-guided walking tours in the morning, and then pause along the way at the places that seemed interesting. It can be hot AF in the summer though, so be prepared.

The same is true for Florence. The public transit in Florence is excellent. Take the bus up to the Pizaelle Michelangelo for a great sunset photo over the city with the Tuscan hills in the background. I really like the Chapel of the Princes and the Opificio delle Pietre Dure museum was an incredible up-close look at all of the intricate stone work processes resulting in the stone mosaics you see all around Florence. I was literally the only one in the museum when I went in 2018. In addition to Rick Steves self-guided walking tours, the app also has a ton of free audio tours for the sites in Florence. His resources for Florence are pretty comprehensive, actually.

The Firenze Card is 72 euro for 72 hours, and totally worth it, IMO. This three-day sightseeing pass gives you admission to many of Florence’s sights, including the Uffizi Gallery and Accademia. It lets you skip the ticket-buying lines without making reservations (except for the Duomo dome climb). With the card, you simply go to the entrance, find the Firenze Card priority line, show the card, and they let you in. I believe it also gets you on public transit for free as well. There are different denominations you can buy (24 hours, 72 hours, etc.), but I found it totally worth it.

Have fun!

by Anonymousreply 37June 19, 2021 11:03 PM

[quote] I forget the name of the church up at the top of the hills in Florence, but it's Byzantine rather than renaissance and has spectacular tiled walls (and permits photos).

The Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte. I second this. It's great, and right on the way to Piazzale Michelangelo.

by Anonymousreply 38June 19, 2021 11:13 PM

[quote] Don't waste too much time in Rome. It's Roma pickpocket hell, and the local police stand by and do nothing. Be very careful on the streets, in the subway, on buses, in the train station and sitting outside in a restaurant.

This is nonsense. Use common sense, and you won't have any problem. Wear a money belt. Use a wallet that you can chain to your belt loop if you must. Don't carry all your cards and cash in one place just to be safe. Ignore people who randomly approach you.

The only thing that may not be common sense is that if you see someone fall to the ground and act as if they're injured or start fighting, just walk by and don't look at them. This is one of the ways they scam tourists and pick their pockets when they're not paying attention.

by Anonymousreply 39June 19, 2021 11:20 PM

[quote] For me, seeing David was an absolute highlight. If you go, go right on opening. If you have a Firenze Card you can go straight through the turnstiles while the reserved ticket holders get their tickets

Check the Firenze Card website about this first, though. When I was there, you had to make reservations at the l’Accademia and the Ufizzi at least 3 days in advance. With the reservation, the Firenze Card allowed you to go right in - but you had to have the reservation.

by Anonymousreply 40June 19, 2021 11:24 PM

Dinner at Sostanza. Get the butter chicken. It's fucking amazing - and I never say that about chicken (well, not the poultry kind at least).

Another vote for Lucca - and a day/overnight at Cinque Terre if it's not peak season.

by Anonymousreply 41June 19, 2021 11:47 PM

There's a company that provides hot air balloon rides over Rome, assuming they are still in business. I'm sorry I don't remember the name, but you'll see ads for it in any touristy spots. Really fun and the bird's eye view of the Colosseum alone is worth the cost.

Also, a cheap and easy thing to do is just drive around the major Rome sites at night. They are all lit up and photograph beautifully.

by Anonymousreply 42June 19, 2021 11:52 PM

I wondered who was able to travel abroad then I realized the OP posted this in 2015.

by Anonymousreply 43June 19, 2021 11:54 PM

[quote] Also, a cheap and easy thing to do is just drive around the major Rome sites at night.

I can't imagine renting a car in Rome. The Romans drive like maniacs.

by Anonymousreply 44June 19, 2021 11:55 PM

R43, ha I didn't even notice. And I was thinking "why would anyone go know when they are still battling Covid?"

R44, my family is from Rome so I had no trouble. :)

by Anonymousreply 45June 19, 2021 11:57 PM

I see Defacto is back

by Anonymousreply 46June 19, 2021 11:57 PM
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