It's not perfume, but I just had to include it anyway
Katy Perry *IS* stupid and juvenile!
They called the Exclamation bottle a flop and that perfume has been around for over 25 years.
The true, classy perfumes have adult, grown up bottles.
The wanna-be's have juvenile, garrish colors and shapes.
The Beiber one looks like a vag, for Gods sake!
Do all the boy singers release perfumes these days?
Or has "The Bieb" plowed new ground here?
Hermes, Dior, and prada
My husband is the executive director for packaging at a major cosmetics company here in NYC. I now know more about perfume bottled than I ever would have in my life! He brings the samples of his projects home, they take a long time you know. From conception to launch is like 2 years, sometimes more.
What's so 'flop' about Dior J'adore? It's a lovely bottle, very sophisticated.
R10 Please share more about what you know about perfume bottles. I love them and have always been curious about how companies do them. I assume that someone like Lagerfeld or Gaultier draws up what they want on their own, while other companies must brainstorm based on image.
I've always been a fan of the original eau de parfume from Donna Karan. Very feminine.
R12, yes I asked my husband tonight about this. He said when his company does a fragrance for a celebrity designer, they usually come in with their own sketch and concept via their own private design associates. These are then handed over to the design team at his company, and they get worked a bit until it is finalized.
For a fragrance created in-house, the company's own designers work based off of mood boards, a written detailed concept of the theme of the perfume, and input from marketing. A "big bang" fragrance (something new that gets sold on top shelf of fragrance counters, with full-page ads during launch, TV ads, in-store events etc) can take at least 2 years from concept to shelf.
This is what I found interesting, none of the components of the packaging comes from the same company. The bottles might be from France, the caps from China, the pumps from Canada, the cartons from Belgium but printed in Mexico, the cellophane from somewhere in the US, etc. The whole process requires engineers to do all the testing that has to happen, the slightest misfit of a cap or spring or cardboard insert can set the project back months. Bottles are usually not the color they appear, most of them are clear glass sprayed with clear colored glaze. True colored glass results in green, blue and brown with some shades in between. Never hot pink, mint green, golden topaz, etc. I never knew that, I thought glass could be made any color. He said it is complicated chemical reactions with things like cobalt with the silica under extraordinary heat which creates the color.
His favorite bottle to work on? It was a vanity collection, really never meant to sell mass quantities but more to keep certain family members involved in the business. The cap was studded with various semi precious stones like tourmaline, moonstone, agate and lapis. These were sourced from stone sellers from various countries, boxes of them sent in, inspected, rejected, over and over again until the right shaded were found. Took months until they were ready for assembly. The finished product looked sort of random to us, but not unpretty. Unknown to us until later, the stone work on the gold plated caps was all homage to the old Austrian Wiener Werkstatte group in the early 20th century. We didn't know much about German or Austrian art, but we saw some vintage pieces in a museum and I said "hey, these look like the caps on the _______ bottle" and sure enough, they were nearly exact. So nothing is really random!
Thanks for coming back and sharing all that. It's really fascinating and I wish I could see what that bottle looked like. How did it smell?
Gaultier bottle is the best
Delicious. If it were socially acceptable for a man to smell like gardenia, I'd wear it. I have a tiny sample bottle in my top dresser drawer where I keep my handkerchiefs, pocket change, wallet, collar stays, etc. Once in a while, I scent the drawer with a quick squirt.
How about this Lalique perfume bottle that recently sold on eBay?
There was a group on Usenet for people who sold on eBay. One of the best stories was a guy who'd bought a jewelry box at a garage sale. He found an old empty perfume bottle in the box. He knew people collected those, so he listed it on eBay, starting at like $5 or something. The bidding quickly went to a few hundred dollars, and he was getting emails asking him to sell it privately for $500, $600, etc. He left the bidding open and it finally sold for around $5,000. It turned out to be some perfume edition made in the 1920s with a special crystal bottle.
Prince Matchabelli bottles were like miniature crowns. As I kid, I thought there were fascinating.
Kenzo's first perfume had a lovely bottle like the peonies it smelt like. I think it's no longer made. Great pity. I had no idea perfumes are constantly reformulated. Gucci's Envy and Georgio are no longer the original smells, nor Ombre Rose or the original and unique Ombre Blue. They all seem to go downmarket and become coarser fragrances in their reformulations.
All the world's major perfumes are created only by about 3 major companies on behalf of all the design houses etc. Making the fragrance isn't the expensive part because the companies don't charge upfront: instead they take a cut on the sales. The expensive part is the bottles. You can buy generic bottles but they're mostly horrible. And making a unique bottle costs a fortune. I worked on some (cheap line) perfumes. e.g. I specified one to be a jungle at night and two weeks later back came all these little sample bottles with fragrance strips. Estee Lauder commissioned Knowing after she stayed at a resort and was wowed by the smell of the pittosporum trees that edged the pool. But to me it smells nothing like pittosporum. The most ambrosial smell to my mind is the shrub Deutzia. It's transporting.
All laboratory stenches are rank. Just wash, people.
I think Eternity has been reformulated, but I have no proof. It smells way less fruity than I remember when it was first launched. I read that Drakkar Noir was reformulated too, but good riddance to the old swill and I can't imagine the new is any improvement. Nothing says gold chain worn outside a turtleneck with blow-dried hair like Drakkar. Gross.
[quote]Great pity. I had no idea perfumes are constantly reformulated.
And sometimes they keep the same formula, but don't buy the same quality ingredients. At least, I think that's what happened to L'Air du Temps.
Sun Moon Stars by Lagerfeld
I think R14 is talking about the bottle for Erin Lauder's specially created perfume. The bottle is lovely, with little pieces of those stones.
I wanted nothing more than to buy that fragrance, especially since it was supposed to be gardenia, I love the smell of gardenia, but it wasn't sold anywhere near me and I wasn't going to buy a perfume I had never smelled first.
I had a chance to go into either a Neimans or was it Nordstoms? And took a whiff.
Not impressed by it and did not buy it.
I think it's nice R30, but I don't have a lot of experience with the complexity of fragrances. I read one review of it on basenotes.com, and one of the reviewers gives it a positive rating but suggests there is a note of something that suggests roquefort cheese which I guess was put there to make the white flowers less cloying. That might be what your nose caught. Interestingly, Madonna's new fragrance is a tuberose/gardenia mix too. Weird looking bottle, reminds me of a white coffin. I told the hubby this fragrance was going to drop out of the department store counters and go to mass-market (Walgreens, CVS, Target, etc) within a year. He didn't disagree, that is usually the fate of celebrity fragrances.
Yes, R31, now that I think about it, it was definitely toned way down. Not enough gardenia for my taste. Not that I like particularly cloying scents, either.
I learned my lesson with Michal Kors' first perfume. That was an interesting bottle as well, although the spray mechanism was defective and would leak.
Those pumps are a huge part of testing the product before it goes to the market. Sometimes I guess some of them are turkeys. But they are tested in labs by whitecoats under all kinds of extreme conditions. Those results are all reviewed and signed off by my husb, who is a chemical engineer by profession. I hear a lot about pumps and caps, more than I do the pretty bottles.
I love Nina Ricci's apple bottle, it's lovely.
Wouldn't you just use the same model/design for all the bottles? Pumps, I mean.
Obviously different sizes, and colors an such?
Chanel No 5 is the classic. Simple bottle and the scent is still modern and enduring.
I rarely wear cologne but I love YSL's M7. I always get compliments on it, unfortunately mostly from women. (I'm a gay male.)
The ad below is fantastic. Great bottle, great scent, and Samuel de Cubber nude. Sadly, no American magazines would run it, derailing YSL's launch of it in the US.
I asked about the generic pump. It seems the pump is different based on the product it is delivering. The designer might have a specific concept in mind, for example "make the fragrance exit the bottle in a nearly invisible cloud" or something like that. Depending on the concentration of the perfume, they might want a lighter delivery or heavier delivery. Heavier droplets might be allowed for an after-bath application but not appropriate for a dressed woman mid-day, etc. Pumps work different based on the thickness of the product too.
Another interesting thing I've learned is the most desireable color of perfume is clear, and it is a real challenge to produce a clear product depending on what components are in the fragrance. Some flavors are naturally dark, added to the other compounds and alcohol it produces an amber or sometimes gray fluid. The more the lab tinkers with it to bleach the color out, the more the original notes of the formula can change. The smell changes, but also things like shelf stability too. Its complex chemistry. He says tantrums have happened when senior VP's see an amber perfume when they hoped for clear. But it's just not possible sometimes.
What's the markup on a bottle of perfume? Can't cost more than a couple of bucks to make. You're paying for those fancy, glossy Vogue ads.
About $8.00, he (my husband in the industry) but that includes everything: packaging, labor, chemicals etc. So it's a big markup, but the department store gets to share that with the perfume company. It's a 70/30 split, but I don't remember who gets what. Either way, his company has billions of dollars in cash. They released their annual report and they can run for years without making money, if it came to it. They are still aggresively acquiring other small product lines, and their biggest markets for their flagship brands are Japan, middle eastern countries, and Russia.
Chanel No. 5 STINKS. It such a stale, old lady smell.
Channel, either 22 or is it 11? Smells heavenly.
Powdery, floral scent. It's devine.
I love the bottle for Shalimar. It reminds me of some ancient matron's dresser full of trinkets and pretty bottles on a tray. Not as much a fan of the scent.
My favorite men's fragrance is Coolwater. Yes, it is sort of 80's dated, but the cool aquatic notes with some spice are irresistible to me. When I smell a man wearing it I am transported back to another time, some guy I was nuts about wore it.
My sister got a bottle of Salvador Dali perfume in the late 80s; didn't like the scent much, but the bottle I always found interesting.
r43, I used to love my mom's bottles of Shalimar when I was little. She kept them on a mirrored tray in the master bath, and I used to sneak in there & put some on from time to time (I'm a guy). I seem to recall she had a spray & a roller (perfume & bath oil?). They've changed the bottles since the early '80s, though. The new bottles are not as dainty. I seem to recall one with a crystal rose top - CLASSY!
r49 If you were a little gayling who loved his mommy's Shalimar, try Habit Rouge, the boy version. Big boy version.
And when did Chloe go to a simple squat bottle. Loved the Lily stoppers.
Opium YSL was such a lovely bottle, especially when it was a silk rope laque de chine necklace. Decadent.
Demeter Fragrance Library, Reichen and the NY Yankees fragrance use the same exact bottle.
Best bottle for a male eau de parfum. Best ad, too.
About to be printed in Vogue and American GQ. Pulled from the US market at the last minute.
R49, I bought a bottle of Habit Rouge in 1980, hated it in about a week, and stopped wearing it. It was in the bottle linked below rather than the one you can buy today, and didn't smell at all like Shalimar, which was my all-time favorite women's perfume. (Not that I bought it expecting it to smell like Shalimar. I'm just mentioning it since you brought it up.)
Oh, and I kept the Habit Rouge because I liked the bottle. I moved on to Polo -- smelled like sex in 1980 -- but the woman in the office across the hall complained about getting headaches from it. Ultimately, I reverted to my all-time favorite, Eau Sauvage.